Tuesday 17 April 2012

Hoi An Day 12

After my last post about Hoi An we went for a nice run around the old quarter on the town. Its so humid and hot that after 6kms you are absolutely soaked in sweet. After the run we decided to try one of the recommended restaurants. It was called Cafe Can and we tried some of the local dishes. We ordered a white rose (banh bao) as a starter which is steamed manioc parcels of finely diced crab or shrimp complemented by a crunchy onion flake topping. For main I had the cao lau which was a nice little dish. Its thick rice flour noodles bean sprouts and pork rind croutons. Legend has it that the genuine article is cooked using water from one particular local well. Candice had some fish which was served in a banana leaf which was also very nice. The nice thing about each place we have visited in Vietnam is that most of them have a unique type of food or speciality. Some places also have a local beer to which is great. Chase an american chef who we met in Nha Trang and then we bump into him every now and again in different the various towns we are visiting also keeps telling us which different foods to try.
Hoi Ann is also well known for its tailors. Literally just outside the old quarter on some streets every second shop is a tailor. On our way back to our hotel I saw a really nice shirt so I thought it would be at least a good idea to have one made. I inquired about price and the woman said that if I took two I would get a cheaper price. I wasn't in the mood for bargaining so ended up taking two. The Woman in the shop was very helpful and did our measurements in record time. Candice had a dress made which she was really happy about.
We were leaving the next day at 2pm but she said that she could have the clothes ready at 11.
We got up early on the day of departure so that we could do some final exploring. On our way out I decided to ask the tailor if she could fix my jeans with a hole.She happily obliged and did a really good job on them. Navigating through the old quarter we took a walk over and some pictures of the old chinese bridge. Hoi An at some point was a port for the chinese and the buildings which are ancient really feels like you have gone back in time. We stopped for a shake and some water to refuel and then headed back to the tailor to pick up our clothes. We got there at 11 the time she said we should be there but there was nobody in the shop. We sat in the shop waiting and she eventually appeared on her motorcycle. Whilst we were in the shop 5 South African girls came in who were also getting stuff made and we chatted to them for a bit. Candice tried on her dress and it was slightly to small. The tailor lady took one look and said no problem. She took the dress from candice and headed off on her bike. She came back about 10 minutes later with the dress altered.
It was a scorcher of a day and our train was at 2:45pm so we had to make the most of the day so continue to walk around the old quarter and its shops. Candice found a nice little clothing shop and bought one or two items. We continue a little further down the street and noticed the blocked off. It turned out to be a school with children all leaving. It looks like the kids leave the school at lunch and then come back at 2 when its cooler in the afternoon. I noticed the kids all hustling around a bike with a very old man who was selling ice cream. It was a day for ice cream and the kids were like flies on a fish carcus all jostling to get one.
Time to head back to our hotel and Im sweating my chops off so had a swim in the pool. We chilled for about half an hour then the taxi driver picked us up to take us to Da Nang to get our train. Another interesting car journey. The rules of the road don't exist in Vietnam its absolutely mental. I've only seen once accident in Vietnam but its amazing we haven't seen more. The most fascinating thing to me is how they just drive on the wrong side of the road at oncoming traffic to get to a side street. Our train was slightly delayed but it was also our first journey sitting and not sleeping. Candice had read the journey from Da Nang to Hue was worth seeing so we did the train seating instead of sleeping. It was also a good way to break up the journey from Da Nang to Hanoi. The journey was really scenic. The tracks wound along the mountains and there were great views of the sea etc. The trip was also memorable because we were two of about 4 westerners in the carriage so the Vietnamese people were very inquisitive and interested of us. You really do feel like all eyes are on you and stick out like a sore thumb. The train we are on is going all the way to Da Nang so the served some food on the train. You get a plate and the point out a couple things. I was tempted to try some but the flies and cleanliness put me a tad off so I gave it a miss.




The Ancient Bridge.




A Vietnamese woman.




The ice cream seller




The train








Train food




View from the train

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